The Squid Season

Like the squid season of Terengganu on the east coast of the peninsula when the seas squid in scoop (sauk) would light up with the lights from hundreds of fishermen doing their squid fishing along the coast, Langkawi has its time, too.

About the end of each year between late November and February, a similar activity goes full swing in Langkawi, especially along its western coastline. However, unlike their counterparts in the east coast who use hook and line (jigging), the Langkawi squid fishing method is by using scooping nets - a method which was kept a trade secret until quite recently. So popular is this seasonal activity that it has taken a festival-like air each time as the Langkawi Squid Challenge makes this traditional fishing pursuit a fun proposition.

According to the fishermen, squid scooping is best done during a calm, dark and moonless night. Rough seas can result in strong currents that will keep the squids from surfacing. Hurricane lamps or even battery-operated fluorescent lamps are used to draw the squids to the surface. On a good night the lights can attract more than 100kg of squids within a short span of time.

Upon reaching a suitable spot, the task begins by landing the initial catch. The first squid caught will then be used as a decoy to attract the others from deep below the surface to the lights. You can try your hands at squid scooping by taking out a package from one of the many tour operators in Langkawi.

fishing in kelong pak akop part2

fishing in kelong pak akop

Siakap merah in my ais box


My first fish


Line of my fishing rod


Karawan gewang


I and my stingray


my first fish


gewang and popper


my fishing rod



This is my first trip at raft Pak Akop. This raft can only fit 5 to 6 person. If you all want to go fishing in this raft, it only cost RM12 a person. At this trip i go with my 2 friend Mr Faizal [bijan] And Mr Azar. At this trip we only catch 2 fish, red siakap and a stingray. Went we arrive at the raft, the water are start to ebb. I thing that is why we all cant catch more fish.
Bait that we use is prawn,squid and some selayang.We also use gewang and popper, boot we cant catch any fish witch this style of fishing. Even Mr Faizal cast already reach 369 time.

LEARND TO JIGGING

Saltwater Fishing with a Jig

Somewhere along the way one of the most versatile fishing lures ever devised received the name "jig". Probably either because the molds they are made from or the mechanism used to hold them while they are being tied, are called jigs. Either way the term has come to mean a particular style of fishing with a particular type of lure - fishing with a jig.

Types of Jigs

Bucktail jigs, nylon jigs, mylar jigs, feathered jigs - they come in all sizes and shapes, and each is designed to imitate a baitfish of some sort. And for fish catching ability, these lures, cast for cast, out fish all other lures. If I had to choose only one lure to fish with, it would be a bucktail jig.

Depth

Jigs work in any depth of water, but generally, the deeper you fish, the heavier the jig.



In water up to 180 feet deep it takes a good 8 ounces of weight to reach the bottom if there is any current at all. These means a jig with a 7/0 or 8/0 hook, and the probability of BIG fish.

Deep Jigging

Any time the water is deeper than 100 feet, the jig fishing I do is called deep jigging. It requires some stamina and a strong back, because it takes a lot of upward motion from your rod to move the jig effectively on the bottom. This is not a place for subtle twitches and jig movements. In water this deep, the line stretch factor removes any possibility for subtleness. What we are looking for here are fast upwards jerks of the rod to get the lure to move up and down in some type of pattern.

Bait Strips

I like to use a strip bait on a deep jig - usually a mullet filet cut thin, pointed on the hook end with a split tail at the end. Too much meat left on the strip restricts the movement of the strip and presents an unnatural looking bait. If we are lucky, we will have caught some small bonito or false albacore, the belly meat of which we always keep. The skin on these bellies is thin and white with a silvery or pearly sheen. This is in sharp contrast to the dark red meat attached to the skin and this contrast works extremely well. Again, the meat side is trimmed very thin to allow that important flexibility.

LEARN TO POPPING

Light Tackle Popping

Poppers are a fun way of catching both bass and bluefish. Everyone likes to see a fish come to the top and smash a surface popper to oblivion. It's heart stopping and it gets your adrenaline pumping.

When most people fish poppers for stripers, they fish them too fast. Having the lure moving slowly and popping will result in a lot more hits than racing it across the top of the water. The faster you move the plug the more bluefish you will attract and the few stripers you will catch.

Some poppers are built to sink, some are built to float and still others will even swim on the surface when reeled in very slowly between pops and splashes. Using or choosing the right one for certain conditions plays a big role in just how many fish you will catch.

Poppers that sink are normally heavier than others of the same type, and thus cast a lot farther than ones of similar size and shape. I like these for beach fishing where distance is sometimes very important. On beaches where there are outer bars, rock piles or rips, it's often necessary to be able to make a very long cast to reach where the fish are.

Sinking poppers normally requires a rod that is a bit stiffer and longer to get it up on the surface and keep it there so it works properly.

Floating poppers are good in a variety of situations and conditions. In areas where there are lots of rocks and little water depth, such as at the bottom have tide. Floating poppers will come over them and through them better with much less chance of hanging up.

When the wind is calm or there is just a slight ripple on the water surface, floating poppers can bring some explosive strikes. Fish these conditions early in the morning before the sun comes up or late in the evening as it goes down. Being able to keep the lure on the surface and in front of the fish's face helps immensely when trying to lure him to the surface.

With technology being what it is today, poppers now come with rattles built-in to add sound besides the pops, splashes and gurgles. There are numerous times that rattles can and will make all the difference in the world.

When tying on a popper use a good quality snap swivel like a Duo-Lok, which allows the lure to move as it was designed to do. Attaching a split ring to the front eye will also help in making it work better.

Loop knots are also good to use when fishing poppers. Fly fishermen use loop knots all the time. They are easy to tie and have very good holding strength on almost any mono leader when tied properly. A good knot book will illustrate how to tie one properly. It's'not at all hard to do.

When fishing for bluefish, remove all the trebles and use one single Siwash Salmon hook on the tail end. Since most blues will attack from the rear first, the big salmon hook usually gets them. It's a lot easier to deal with a blue with one hook than it is with two or three sets of trebles. It's also a lot less painful; having been stuck a few times myself. When you take off thousands of fish in the coarse of a season you raise the odds tremendously of getting stuck sooner or later. I also crush the barbs so if you do get stuck it comes out easier than it went in.

If you learn to play and fight the fish properly, you won't loose any more fish than ones with barbs won't. In fact, you wind up hooking more since it penetrates much more easily in a boney jaw. Just make sure you keep your hook razor sharp.

For stripers, I'll put a single salmon hook in the front in place of the treble. Most bass will take the plug headfirst so you need a sharp hook up front. You can dress the tail hook with feathers, bucktail or whatever you like for stripers, but I leave the hook bare most times for bluefish. If you do dress the tail hook for blues, use something synthetic like Ultra hair. It will last longer and be sure to dress it sparsely.

Practice Catch & Release

Some fish are far too valuable to be caught only once.
Many angler's now take only what they need for food and release the rest of their catch unharmed.

This is called "catch and release" and it helps to keep enough fish in the rivers and lakes for everyone to fish for.



Here are several tips
for practicing a successful
catch and release.



1. After landing the fish, try to keep it in the water as much as possible.

Try to avoid removing the fish from the water.

Do not let fish flop about in shallow water, on the ground, or in the bottom of your boat.

2. Use wet hands or wet cloth gloves to handle the fish.

Fish have a slime coating, which seals out infection.
Rough handling can destroy this protection.

Keep your fingers out of and away from the gills and eyes.

Never squeeze the fish.

Fish can not remain healthy out of water for longer than you can hold your breath.
Picture running a 4-minute mile, then someone sticks your head under water and tells you hold your breath.
This is what a fish goes through after a fight at the end of a line.

3. Remove the hook from the fish's mouth. If the hook is deep in the throat and cannot be removed easily, cut the line. The hook will usually dissolve or fall out later.

4. Have your partner take a picture of you and your catch.

QUICK SHOTS
Make sure the camera is ready and film is loaded before boating the fish. Nothing puts more stress on a fish than “sunbathing” on the deck, waiting for a slow poke to ready a camera. When the camera is ready, then lift the fish from the water and snap the shots you need and release the fish immediately.

5. Release the fish back into the water -

never throw it.

Once a fish has been landed, quickly turn the fish upside down and more times than not the fish will immediately become disoriented and cease struggling. Removing the hook becomes a great deal easier and the fish is left in much better condition for the release to follow.

Point your catch into a slow current, or gently move it back and forth until its gills are working properly and it maintains its balance. When the fish recovers and attempts to swim away, let it swim from your hands.

Large fish may take some time to revive.

Watch your fish swim away.

It is a great feeling and you know others will have the opportunity to catch and have as much fun as you did!

the uni knot

Turle Knot

Turle Knot

Also known as the Turtle Knot, and Major Turle's Knot, it is simplicity itself to tie, but is one of the weakest knots.
It should never be used for light lines, and there are better knots for use with heavy ones.





1. Pass the line through the eye of the hook.

2. Make a simple loop.

3. Carry the end of the line on to make a Simple Overhand Knot upon the loop.

4. Pass the loop over the hook.

5. Draw up into shape.

600 F Pursuit

The 600 F is the most radical departure from Signature's 'normal' range of middle-ground, high performance trailer boats that has emerged from the big Wacol factory in years.
True, the Hines family are not strangers to fishing boat design and construction in a historic sense. However, in the context of this latest generation of top-selling Signature models, true fishing boats have had to take a back seat.
First off, the family had to re-build their vastly up-dated range of boats (now stretching from the 15'6" 1550 F through to the 28' 850 Series) before they could branch out and develop specialist models.
For those fishes chomping at the bit to get the renown performance and ride of a variable dead rise Signature under a decent fishing platform, the wait has been worthwhile.
In the 600 F, we have one of the most sophisticated mono-hulls yet developed in Australia, based on the marvelous 600 LE hull, but in fact very different from the waterline up.
Nowhere is this more obvious than around the transom, where the production team, headed up nowadays by second generation boat builder John Hines (Jnr) working under the watchful ? and highly critical ? eye of John Hines (Snr), has changed the original transom outboard well into a far more practical arrangement for fishermen.
And that is only the beginning. The deck and cabin mold is radically different, the design being based around a 'shooting list' of features the factory wished to include. The list was the result of much research and collaboration with dealers, boating writers and Signature owners, not leas of whom were Spring wood Marnie's Tommy Wylde, and TBF's Jeff Webster. Although these two men were coming from completely different directions, for different reasons, the end result of their deliberations was remarkably similar Spring wood Marine is one of the biggest Signature dealers in Australia (the biggest is JV Marine in Melbourne) and Tom Wylde a close friend of the Hines family. For a long time now, Tom and his son Hayden have felt there was a need for a fiberglass alternative to the Quintrex models their dealership sells by the truckload. But it had to be a real fishing boat?
Jeff Webster, on the other hand, was frustrated by the knowledge that the signature hulls were exactly what the fishermen needed ? soft riding through chop, superb handling craft through any slalom test ? but without exception, all were designed for the middie-ot-the-road family
Yes. they could/can be made-over with after market mods, but in most cases, some of the fundamental shapes and transoms just don't do it for the keen trailerboat fisherman. But the ride quality of a Signature in rough or choppy water just blows tinnies of a similar length clean out of the water . . . what to do ?
Finally, late last year, came the break-through Jeff had been waiting for. Greg Haines rang from Brisbane and asked him to prepare a list of ali the features Jeff reckoned they should have in a 6 m fishing boat.
It is an indication of the factory's determination to build the definitive fishing boat, that they achieved 18 out of the 20 suggestions Jeff recommended for the new 600 F ? and the two other items are options.
Design
Statistically, the 600 F has an overall length of 5.94 m (19'6"), with a maximum beam (forward) of 2.21 m (7'3") and a wateriine beam of 1.99 m (6'6") at the transom.
It is a variable deadrise hull, working from an amazing 34 degrees in the forefoot, turns back to some 22.5 degrees at the transom ? no wonder it rides so well in choppy water! But if you want to see how or why a Signature works as well as it does, you'll need to get down on your hands and knees and study the planing strakes very carefully; this is where the action happens, folks, and the shapes, placement, angles and size of the strakes, relative to the size, shape and displacement of the hull, are all part of the John Haines' Signature hull magic.
On a trailer, the complete test rig tipped the scales at 1 68 tonnes ? that's complete with the 135 Merc, tandem axle trailer, basic safety gear and all the standard fit-out for the 600 R and 25 per cent fuel. The alloy fuel tank accepts 165 L (36 gal), so chocker with fuel, the rig will weigh pretty dose to 1.70-1.75 tonnes with fishing gear and persona! effects.
it's a pretty big six metre, especially the way the cabin 'shed' has been truncated to form a large cuddy cabin underneath.
Inside, the cuddy easily seats 3-4 adults out of the weather, with headroom of 101 cm (40"), sleeps two in 1.87 m (6'2") berths, and has a walk-through arrangement to the forward hatch and anchor well, that's plenty big enough for the 16 stone and above fishing fraternity.
The big, draining anchor locker is outboard of the hatch, and in a
perfect position for the crew to pick up the anchor and lower over the side. Reaching out to the forward bow roller is a real stretch though, especially if you want to open or close the pin.
The cabin structure is quite high, and provides an excellent base for the helmsman's seat, instruments, engine controls, and the 5 piece lexan windshield. The windshield is well placed too, being 1.6 m (5'3") off the deck, ideal for most owners who like to stand and see over the 'screen, or sit and be protected. Notice too, the superbly built stainless steel rod rack-come-targa bar, and the way it is integrated into the design of the bimini and windshield.
This is good stuff - all you do is add a zip-in clear vinyl screen between the top of the windshield and the leading edge of the bimini, and a snug, water tight 'outer cabin' is created. Very nice it is too, on those winter snapper fishing trips, with the boat laying to anchor facing into those chilly winds ? what price then a warm cabin area :
The dash area has been /veil thought out too with sensibly deep spaces being allocated to the depth sounder radio(s) and storage and bits and pieces
The shelves along the topsides under the gunwale cover boards. deserve special mention
On both sides on the boat moulded GRP shelves and ledges have been designed so you can easily add more shelves later or build in customised features such as a lure cupboard first aid corner tool locker more rod racks, gaff racks, etc.
It?s the first time I?ve seen such a feature in a GRP boat Keen fishos will be rapt - flexibility like this is normally the province of the plate alloy brigade
Other excellent cockpit features include:
- Above floor battery box
- Standard moulded fish box and ? - storage lockers
- Standard live bait tank
- Standard nylon cutting boards
- Removable transom corner seats
- Built in, draining icebox
- Built m tackle cupboard
- Four stainless rod holders
- Ideal 83.5 cm (33") internal freeboard amidships, 74.5 cm (29.5") next to the transom
- Side lockers you can put your toes under and stand against the gunwales.
- Foot boxes for tools and spares
- Swiveling, adjustable track molded seats
- Molded topside rod racks on each side
- Optional lift-out bait prep tray.
Performance
With a 135 Mercury on the transom, the 600 F didn't lack anything in the performance department. had done an excellent job with fitup including one of the new Hi- Five stainless steel, five-bladed props, resulting in superb top end performance and surprisingly good out the hole acceleration. I say surprisingly, only because some of these hight performance props are brilliant at the top end of the performance envelope, and leave a lot to be desired al the bottom. I am not sure thus is a prop I'd choose for continual offshore use but on the other hand, for boating people intent on a mixture of everything, it is very hard to argue with the statistics we obtained.
It is also hard to see the need for greater horsepower, unless a fishing crew involved three or four big men. The economic advantage of staying with the 120-135 engine size is clear.
The 600 F is rated for a maximum 150 hp outboard in any event, and that would cater for any situation.
(Note: The full performance trials were curtailed in Queensland due to bad weather. Instead, we've utilised the fuel figures we obtained with an identical Mercury 135 fitted to a Sea Ray Laguna. We then produced a compilation of the data; it will be accurate to within (say) 5 per cent on the fuel and range figures, in the Signature's favour i.e they will be a fraction better).
As you can see, the Signature 600 F has a maximum range of approximately 170 miles at a mid range 3,000 r/min. and around 125 nm in the 20 knot range. Some readers in FNQ, or the SA gulfs, or WA's mid north coast might have to think about installing additional fuel tanks for long range cruising or fishing situations.
It is easy enough to do -- the 'trench' in the middle of the cockpit can be extended in either direction. However, the factory has chosen 165 L (36 gallons) as a good compromise between weighing the boat down with too much fuel for most situations, against having a decent sort of range in the majority of cases.
Handling
The Signature 600 F handles superbly. This isn't exactly news, as the 600 LE has long been regarded as a bench mark in monohulls in Australia, and if anything, because this is a bit heavier, it is just that little bit softer in the ride.
The boat feels terrific to drive. The helm position is really nice, with an almost ideal relationship between bimini, windscreen, helm and driver's chair.
The passenger side is OK too, but I didn't spend a lot of time in that chair, preferring to elbow my way into the driver's corner!
Curiously, we had a big Quintrex 535 Centre Console on test on the same day as the 600 F, and without being overly harsh on the new Quintrex 535, it was fascinating to jump from one of the best alloy boats in Australia into the 600 F ? the difference is incredible.
It is not so much that the Quinnie is hard riding, as it highlighted how astonishingly soft the 600 F is in choppy water. This hull is absolutely magic, of that there is no doubt. It is unusual, too, because it needs to be driven fast ? in typical Moreton Bay or Broadwater chop, the faster you go the softer the ride, as the boat gets up on its incredibly deep vee forward (34 degrees), literally slicing through the water. Then, as the water passes away around the sides of the boat the strakes are designed in such a way that they turn the water back down under the hull, creating a sort of kinetic force that uses the energy the boat is creating, to cushion the ride through the chop.
Offshore, this only works for as long as you can stand it ? in other words, as the waves get bigger and bigger, obviously the faster the boat is going, the more likely it is to leap clear off the waves. This forces the skipper to use his brain, back off the throttle and find the speed that the boat will work to its maximum efficiency. Here, John Haines' hull formula is negated to some extent because at sub-planing speeds it has to work pretty much the same as most other deep-vees. Even so, this variable deadrise business pays off; with the very deep forefoot warping aft to a flatter section (22.5 degrees) means that it is still softer than most monos, even in sub-planing speeds.
Stability at trolling speeds is OK ? but at anchor it is still a bit wobbly compared to some. But you just can't have it both ways ? you either have .
the stability on the pick and a bumpy ride home, or alternatively, you have an incredibly soft ride home with a bitmore rock 'n roll on the pick.
Inshore, the 600 F is first rate ? and virtually impossible to fault.
Application
Fishing, fishing and more fishing . . . that is what the 600 F is designed to do. It has been designed for the blue water fishermen, with a definite leaning towards offshore sportfishing as distinct from bottom fishing. That is not to say that it can't be adapted for bottom fishing, but in that case, you would be looking at installing a big central fish box in the cockpit.
"Not a problem," says Tommy Wyld, "just tell me how big you need the box, how much insulation, and whether or not you want a padded cushion on the top ? we'll do it!"
It was interesting for me coming back into the top-of-the -line mono land, after so many hours in TBF's Hook'em 6.0 m at various tournaments in recent weeks. In truth, it is a little shattering, because it reminds you just how much the gap has been closed Between the ride of good monohulls and the best of the twin or tri hills in recent years.
Twin hulls used to have it all over: that is simply no longer 600 F shows why. In most situations, this Pursuit 600 F is as soft riding and as dynamically stable as a cat ? and when the boat is brought around, head into the wind, a mono (as good as this) will easily go past most 'cats. Downhill, nothing is quite as good yet, but . . . but if you need anything much better than the 600F downhill, you'll need to be one hell of a skipper to keep up.
The final choice. I suspect, will come down to whether the purchaser wants:
1 A boat with two engines, and a big self-draining cockpit at the expense of accommodation, or
2. A boat with one engine, nearly half the price, and a couple of big bilge pumps in lieu of the self-draining cockpit. . .
You don't have to be a genius to work out which way most people are going to go!
Conclusion
The Haines' family have kicked a big goal with this boat. It represents a major change in strategy for them, and they deserve all the credit and success this boat so richly deserves.
It is for them a dramatic departure from their traditional turf ? and they have achieved it with great professionalism and great skill.
In the last 12 months, the Savage Mako has taken the retail sector by storm. I suspect the 600 F is going to impact with the same influence in the 6 m area.
In coming months, the Haines people have confirmed they will be developing a stern drive model, a hard top, and a toughened glass windscreen with wiper capability. And - yes, for purists like the writer, a self draining cockpit is going to be made available as an optional extra.

Soft Plastic Lure

Any lure made of a soft, rubbery material is classified in the soft plastic range these days. The life like action of soft plastics, combined with versatility in rigging and price, makes them extremely popular. Soft plastics do actually work, especially if the user takes the time to understand the rigging, presentation and tactics in use.As simple as this rig looks, it's critical to get it exactly right. Scrunched, bent or twisted tails don't swim properly, often spin in the water, causing line twist, and will deter fish from biting.
This is the most basic of all rigs for soft plastics, and also arguably the best.
Begin by laying the jig/hook alongside the soft plastic, with the nose of the soft plastic held level with the back of the jig head. Note exactly where the bight of the jigs hook comes to on the back (top) of the soft plastics tail. This will be the exit spot for the hook point to exit.
Push the point of the jig hook into the front of the soft plastic lure, in the centre of its head or nose. Thread the soft plastic lure onto and around the hook bend so that the point of the hook exits the back of the plastic exactly on the centre line and at that point you noted earlier. Snug the nose of the plastic up against the back of the jig head and glue if preferred.
If your lure looks neat on the hook and the point comes out dead on the centre line of the plastic's back, you probably have it right. If it looks in any way dodgy, slightly crooked, bent, skewed or bunched up, do it again!
Drop the lure in the water and check its action. Pulling it along for a metre checking its action is strongly advisable. If the plastic swims straight on the test run, the tail wobbles or kicks enticingly, and the lure looks like something that might actually be alive, then you've rigged it properly.
With all flick or stick bait style of soft lure, the rigging method is exactly the same, but you need to actually cast the lure a couple of metres and work it back with a few pauses and flicks from the rod tip checking it kicks and flashes and jinks and darts—looking like a wounded, dying bait fish.

FISHING PRO TIP

DRIFT FISHING



Definition: Surface-midwater fishing from a stationary boat.

It is necessary to attract fish to the stationary boat and chum is often used. Because of the risk of shark and large fish attack, medium (30-50lb) to heavy (80-130lb) tackle is recommended.

Technique:

If using live fish, attach hook to dorsal fish. Attach balloon or bottle 10 -20 m from bait depending on depth of bait required. The use of a wire swivel and some light weights can be used to attain the appropriated depth. The float is then released 50 m from the boat. The balloon serves 2 purposes:

1. The balloon is larger than the standard float which will be necessary to be visible at 50-100 m from the boat

2. When the balloon escapes the line, this serves as warning that the fish has taken the bait.



TROLLING



Definition - dragging bait / lures behind a moving boat.

Trolling is done at the surface (mostly), mid water and floor depending on the type of fish attempted.



Specifics:

The larger and faster the fish, the all above categories will increase. That is, heavier tackle, line, hooks, leaders, increased trolling speed and distance.

Although there is no 1 standard to catch all fish, in the medium category, I suggest:

1. 30 lb quality mono filament, 600 meter

2. Bait caster reel

3. 15 kg class rod – with rollers

4. 5 meters of 80 lb mono filament leader

5. 20 cm of 100 lb steel wire

6. Rapala magnum CD 14 lures (orange or red-white)

7. Trolling distance 50 meters



SURF CASTING



Definition: Fishing from the shore.

Two types:

1. Using leaders, bait and sinkers, similar to bottom fishing (It is convenient to use an Apollo hook configuration)
2. Fishing with artificial lures

Although it is said that many large fish come within 6 metres from the shore to feed on the marine creatures brought up from the sand due to the action of the waves, Singapore waters have qualities that requires special consideration

Many of our shores are over-fished, frequently disturbed and polluted. It may be necessary to cast further out. Light and long rods (9-16 feet) with lines of 0.20 and above are recommended. Light rods are especially important when using artificial lures, for easy cast and return. Light line must be balanced with large spool capacity of at least 200 m. A good cast can achieve 100-200 m of distance on spinning and multiplier reels but requires a fair bit of skill.

Many good fishing areas still remain, but are usually difficult to access or restricted. 3-5 kg snakeheads (off Tuas caught with live catfish hooked to a 12 metre nylon rope and thrown into the water), good size groupers, 5-15 kg stingrays, barracuda, tengerri have been brought up.


Bait



The type of bait really depends on the type of fish in the locality and what they are known to feed on. Generally for sea fishing, marine organisms make the best bait e.g., fish, prawns, squid, crab etc.



In the Singapore & Malaysian waters, live prawns and fish (live or fillet) are the best all-rounder baits. Around the northeastern coastal waters of Singapore, ie Pongol, Changi and Ubin, live prawns prove useful for day fishing. For night fishing, kelong-caught squid and live mullet (Ohr Haer/Belanak) of 10-15 cm, selar and tamban are recommended.



Live fish can be caught by net of jigging. Fresh squid is expensive and can be bought from kelongs and Kangar wholesale market at dawn.



Other bait include crabs, which are favorites with groupers and parrot fish – flower crabs quartered with the claws removed or those small brownish crabs along the rocky breakwater, used whole with the claws removed again.



Wolf herring (Ikan Parang), Ikan Tonggol (Bonito) and Queenfish are other good fish bait.



When using fillet or strips of squid or fish, cut it into long strips. Movement of these strips in the water / current mimics live bait. For live fish, attach the hook on the lip or close to the dorsal fin, which prevents them from dying and enable them to continue swimming. As many predatory fish snap up whole fish from the back on center of the bait, hooking near the dorsal fin (centre of the fish) is a better choice.

PRO TIPS

PICKING THE RIGHT COLOR

Consider the conditions around you. Clear water or cloudy water? Calm Surface or broken surface? Is the sun high or low? Is the sky clear or overcast? How deep does the Rapala you're using run? Now that you have the immediate conditions, here are the guidelines to immediate selections:

CLEAR On clear days or in clear water, the silver (S) Rapala is recommended.

CLEAR, DEEP When fishing deep in clear conditions, the silver/blue (SB) Rapala is recommended. Blue maintains its color deeper.

DARK On dark days or in dark water, the gold (G) Rapala is the best.

TURBID In muddy or low visibility water, use a gold/fluorescent red (GFR) Rapala. Also very effective when fishing in the spawning cycle or territorial.

DARK,DEEP In extremely poor lighting or very deep water, the silver/fluorescent chartreuse (SFC) and Firetiger(F) works best.

THE STIMULATOR COLORS
These are the colors that were created to simulate specific forage species.

RAINBOW TROUT (RT) Especially effective wherever there are salmon, trout or chubs present.

PERCH (P) An excellent silhouette lure wherever poor light and clarity conditions exist. Surprisingly good on dark days.

FIRETIGER (FT) Bright finish is the perfect attractant when fishing dark water.

CRAWDAD (CW) For use wherever crayfish are present or as a silhouette diving lure on dark days.

SHAD (SD) The most universal forage color for use in clear conditions.

MACKEREL (GM) Green for dark conditions, blue for clear.

REDHEAD (RH) The wildcard lure color. Creates aggression. Teases strikes.

Be sure to check the locals for colors that work in their area. You may find rainbow trout colors catching fish where there are no rainbow trout or dark water Rapalas catching fish at high noon on a clear day.