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Tuesday, February 26, 2008

ANGEL ROD RANGE


ANGEL ROD RANGE

Howard Croston, our specialist product adviser and England Team Member, explains exactly what we were trying to achieve with the Angel.

"Our objectives were to make the lightest, most responsive rod ever made. We wanted a rod that could deliver great performance with a minimum of effort. And that’s what we’ve done. The Angel gives great loop formation, and you can point, lift and shoot out a line with bull’s-eye accuracy. It is as close as we can get to that indescribable buzz you feel when you pick up a rod that you know instantly is made for you. The Angel isn’t just physically light – we’ve shaved half an ounce off virtually every other comparable fl y rod in
the world - but it feels light."

"So, we’ve built the best rod in the world. Where did we go from there? Well, to the guides and the ghillies of the world. We put the Angel through a whole year of trials in every conceivable climate and water type - for fish big and small. Long casting. Short casting. Baking hot or freezing cold, the Angel has been there and done it. I’ve lived with the rod for well over a year and it’s truly great. I love it. Definitely my favourite rod.”

We also realise that the best rod in the world deserves to see the world so we’ve built a multi-piece Smuggler version. This breaks down into a rod tube short enough to fit into any suitcase, holdall or aircraft locker so that you never need to go anywhere without your guardian Angel.

The Angel has won a host of awards and received fantastic reviews world wide. It's the most talked about range for years. The hope we had for it during its development have been more than realized. Its lightness and fast tip action gives incomparable loop formation. You can point, lift and shoot out a line with unerring accuracy.

The Angel range has now been increased for 2007, with the following rods added for specific purposes:

* The 8' #3 - is capable of cushioning the lightest of tippets yet still throws the tightest of loops in confined places.
* The 8'6" #4 - fast and responsive it turns over larger mayflies and bulky sedges yet retains precision and control.
* The 10' #6 - the all round still water rod, ideal for top of the water techniques and fast coverage of rising fish.
* The 9'6" #8 - the long distance bank rod or powerful sea trout weapon

ANGEL REEL



ANGEL REEL

The Angel performance fly reels represent the absolute pinnacle from a specification, performance and design perspective. These reels set the standard to which every manufacturer must now aspire. Competitively priced, the five-model range is set to become one of the best-selling Hardy reels of all time. The reel is made from the highest quality aluminum, specially manufactured to ensure both lightness and extreme strength. It is then subjected to an accelerated maturing and stress relieving process that gives the highest possible performance and durability.

If any one product reflects perfectly the reinvention of Hardy then perhaps it's the Angel reel. We were always confident that its looks, construction and performance were flawless and its reputation has grown almost daily since its introduction. Today, it is considered the benchmark reel for the serious world fly angler. It is probably the first classic of the new century.

So, why the acclaim? The large arbor gives low line memory, rapid line retrieval and low start-up inertia to suit light tippets. In its larger sizes, the reel boasts four square inches of break surface area. What this gives is an extremely smooth and reliable drag system whether at the lightest or the heaviest settings. It's a centralized drag system, too, so it's easily accessible and easy to set where you, the angler, want it to be. The reel is light, infinitely strong and endlessly reliable.

For use with smaller lighter rods, there is the Angel Featherweight option. This is exactly the same as its bigger brothers apart from a wide ranging click check to protect light weight tippets.

The reel is anodized to architectural standards that increase the hardness of the aluminum by an amazing four hundred per cent. The satin-silver finish is deliberately made anti-glare and is complemented by champagne-gold highlights that proclaim the reel for what it is – a timeless masterpiece.

Sealine Tournament® 2-Speed Big Game Reels Features:


Sealine Tournament® 2-Speed Big Game Reels Features:

* Easy shifting, two-speed gearbox. Pull in over a yard of line with every crank or quickly shift into low for raw winching power. Optimized mechanism features fewer moving parts for maximum reliability
* Four CRBB extra corrosion resistant bearings
* Infinite Spin™ free spool for maximum casting of live baits and hardware
* Dual-disc drag sandwiches stainless rotor between two wet discs for up to 50% more surface area, smooth, consistent performance
* Preset drag adjustment with precision click feel
* Dual-point gear shaft support for maximum winding power and reliability
* Main shaft bearing stabilizer prevents excessive side pressure on spool bearings regardless of drag tension
* Unitized, one-piece aluminum frame, ultra strong and torque-free
* Machined aluminum spool
* Massive, stainless steel gears
* Stainless steel rod clamp with lanyard ring
* Oversized, comfort-contoured aluminum handle knob
* Custom features already built-in.

SALTIGA SA-Z


Saltiga® SA-Z Features:

* Digigear™ — Digitally designed stainless and bronze alloy gears
* Dual, full-time Infinite Anti-Reverse
* Zero Friction Mainshaft design for smoother, more powerful retrieve
* Nitrided lip
* Twist Buster® line twist reduction
* Oversized, Titanium Nitrided, ball bearing line roller
* Rigid aluminum alloy body, sideplate and rotor
* Tubular stainless Air Bail™
* Ultra-tough, machined aluminum alloy handle
* 14 ball bearings plus roller bearing
* Bail lock prevents handle and rotor turning during a cast
* Machined ABS aluminum spool with Titanium
* Manual bail rip for reliability
* Sealed, water-resistant drag and body

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Spinnerbait




Safety Pin or Overhead Arm Spinnerbait


The 'safety pin' or overhead blade style spinnerbait is probably the most popular spinnerbait design for bass anglers. Like the in-line spinner, the heart of its' design is a wire that is bent roughly 90 degrees and imbedded in lead shaped like a bullet, along with the single hook behind it.

Blade Options: The rearmost blades is attached by a swivel to a bent enclosed wire circle in the overhead wire's tip. An added blade (ie. tandem spinnerbait)is attached in-line on the wire arm by a clevis ahead of the rear blade the same as for an in-line spinner. The characteristics of blades used that are stated above for in-line spinners, also apply to (overhead arm) spinnerbaits. There is no rule for when to use a particular design, color or size blade,or blade combination, but generally the rounder Colorado blade is used for slower colder water retrieves, dropping the bait in a free fall during retrieve pauses or slow rolling the bait along the bottm. (Slow rolling a spinnerbait is similar to the presentation of a skirted jig that is in contact with the bottom in shallow or deep water.) The Colorado blade helicopters above the weight/hook as the bait drops, thus simulating a dying prey target. Most times the strike occurs as the horizontal retrieve is continued. For more on blade hydrodynamics, see below.

Skirt Options: Like in-line spinners, skirt material options are many and depend on the body/target/action profile desired. Skirts are tied on or attached by a rubber collar to the lead molded on the hook. Typical for bass, silicone skirts have recently dominated the field over(living) rubber skirts because of the molded-in patterns, metal flakes and incandescent colors available. The pulsating, fluttering action caused by blade spin is the same as for in-lines, but the body target is rounder and has more action with the similar retrieve or a pause in retrieve. The skirt also slows the bait down with added resistance depending on how many strands are used, but again, minimum or maximum speed capability is dependent on blade size and shape. The length of the skirt is typically 1/4" past the curve of the hook, but some anglers like longer or shorter skirts depending on profile size and skirt action.

If a bait with a certain style and size blade is retrieve too fast, the bait has a tendency to roll over, ruining the horizontal swim. Ideally, the bait should run true, meaning the overhead arm and blade are directly over the skirt/hook on the horizontal swim.

Trailer Considerations:

Spinnerbait dressings or trailers trailers are even more varied than for in-line spinners and personal preference dominates choice. Shaped pork rind and soft plastic trailers are the norm, with soft plastic being the majority material of trailers used and come in many colors. As with in-line spinners, the trailer affects lure profile, action and lift depending on shape and size. For example, a straight double tail design has the least lift or drag and is more of a skirt-like extension; whereas a large curl tail grub produces the most rear action, lift and the largest profile within the pulsating skirt. Pork or soft plastic chunk baits offer the most lift and allow a planing of the bait on the horizontal retrieve.

Wire Arm length Consideration:

There are spinnerbaits that have a short overhead arm and are used for more vertically dropping presentations down steep structure (banks or points). The have a little less weed resistance than the larger overhead arm and blade, but fall better and are closer to the skirted jig versus the spinnerbait design in useage. Typically a Colorado blade is used to slow the fall and create the maximum fluttering flash on the way down.

Long arm baits are used when a bait has multiple blades or when more weed resistance it needed during a horizontal swim. Single large blades allow for maximum skirt and trailer pulsation and provide added lift to the bait on the slowest retrieve. Long arm baits are typically used to cause a surface wake (ie. waking a spinnerbait) when run near the surface or buzzing when the blades chops the surface into a bubbly, noisey trail. For bass, the target hit is usually the skirt and/or trailer; for northern pike, musky and pickerel, the entire bait may be engulfed.

Stinger (trailer hook) option:

Adding a single or treble hook (a stinger hook) to the main hook is also a personal preference and may ensure a better hook up as well preventing fish that jump from throwing the bait. Some anglers prefer the single hook to be rigged so that the point is down, others prefer it rigged up, but in either case the hook must be prevented from coming off the main hook or grabbing weeds. To accomplish this, there are a few choices. The first is to use rubber tubing cut to 1/8", inserting the eye of the trailer hook and forcing the main hook through the rubber covered eye. The trailer hook is now fixed stationary behind the main hook. The other way allow the hook more side to side motion and consist for stops above and below the eye placed on the main hook. These stops can be 1/8" cut rubber tubing or plastic circles cut from the plastic lid of a coffee can and placed above and below the hook eye encircling the main hook.

Friday, February 15, 2008

TIPS FOR JIGGING







These are great techniques if the walleye are spread out but what if the fish are tightly grouped on a point or small rock pile?

Then you have to think about a jig.

I know the rule is that you use a jig and minnow in the spring and switch to crankbaits and spinners in the summer and fall, but that's not the way a versatile angler thinks. A versatile angler makes a decision regarding technique after they discover what position the fish are in.

And if there wasn't some credibility to deep jigging then there wouldn't be any reason to make those quarter and three-eighths ounce jigs now would there?

So, let's go do some jigging in August, when the walleye are deep and everyone else is trolling all over the place.

You notice a few nice "marks" on the sonar screen. This is a good word, "marks" because it sounds like you are the hit-man and those walleye are your victim; doesn't it?

You tie on a three-eighths ounce Stinging Foxee because the walleye you see are in 28 feet of water and you want a little more weight to get the jig down. That jig looks so big as you poke a jumbo leech through the sucker with the tip of the hook, but it's not when you consider the size of the forage they're eating right now. That jig looks like an appetizer. Rig the stinger and drop it down to the fish.

You are wondering why I use a stinger? Because deep walleyes have a knack for being able to pull the leech off the jig, but if you have a stinger hiding in the tail of the leech you will catch that fish.

Most stingers don't work well with a leech, but the Stinging Foxee stinger was designed by me to work with minnows, leeches, and crawlers so you won't be disappointed, especially when you're hauling in a big walleye.

If the fish are two feet off the bottom, let's say, drop the jig all the way to the bottom and bring it up two feet. You want to pop, wiggle, and quiver that jig right in front of those fish.

The bite can be subtle. All you feel is a slight bit of resistance. You don't need to try to rip the fish's lips off. Just snap the rod tip straight up until you feel the weight of the fish.

This next jigging technique works real well this time of year for big walleye. You need to use a half-ounce Fire-ball jig with the standup head and a big shiner or sucker minnow, something in the five to six-inch range.

Push the hook into the fish's mouth and bring it out behind his head. You do that to keep the minnow alive, which means you get some action even when the jig is resting on the bottom. What you want the bait to look like is a minnow feeding on the bottom. The walleye will swim up behind the bait and inhale it. You may not even know you have the fish until you go to lift the jig off the bottom and move it.

The one drawback to this kind of jigging right now on the reservoir is that the pike are everywhere and they love the jig and big minnow combination. You get bit off occasionally, but your chances for a bigger than average walleye are great with this technique.

One of the new products I've incorporated into my jigging routine is the new Fireline. At first I didn't like it for jigging, but Barry Day at Berkley told me to keep working with it and now I wouldn't use any other line when I have a jig on the end.

Why? Because the sensitivity is so fine that you can almost tell when the walleye is breathing on the bait. You know when the fish has gripped the bait in its mouth because you can feel it.

You need to use a rod with a lighter tip. Instead of the line stretching and providing the forgiveness, the rod does.

You really get good hook sets with Fireline too. It's that no-stretch property again. You really bury the hook with just a snap.

You might look a little strange jigging around all those trollers, but hey, who cares when you're catching fish?

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